QP London 2015 a not so feminine watch fair

She chose the lace pattern to be her brand DNA. A lace she designed her way. Anna Molinari established her eponymous label Atelier Molinari in 2015 shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design in London before furthering her knowledge at the Gemological Institute of America in New York.

Author By Eleonor picciotto

Francois-Paul Journe reserved a whole vitrine of the booth to showcase the different options of the Elegante. The first and only timepiece made for woman. The Elegante, is an electro-mechanical watch.

Harry Winston had the compact mirror they presented at Basel. In addition to the marqueterie pieces including the feather dials . Some sparkling midnights were presented not too far from the world acclaimed Opus 14 that recently made some noise. The secret watch – worn as a necklace and hidden behind an emerald cut diamond was overlooking the art déco timepiece set with diamond on the case and bezel and mounted on a lace bracelet.

On a jewelry perspective, the ground floor was the most interresting.

Gems of Time

This year, the theme follows the Art of color where Gemfields exhibits rough and polished Zambian emeralds. The loose stones come from the the largest company in the world supplying responsibly sourced colored stones. Emeralds (green) and amethysts (purple) come from Zambia and rubies (red) from Mozambique.

Backes & Strauss showed fully paved timepieces – 3 rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

Jaeger-Lecoultre, the Extraordinary la Rose is one of the most jewelry timepiece they made with a mecanical movement. 27 mm diameter with a rose set on the top. Put next to the three jewelry Rendez-vous Night and Day,  Rdv Celestial and Rdv Moon with a moonphase.

Bvlgari Diva - Giardini Italiani Collection - in red gold set with diamonds and amethysts
Bvlgari – Diva – Giardini Italiani Collection – in red gold set with diamonds and amethysts
Jaeger-Lecoultre Extraordinaire La Rose - 14 Carats of diamonds - Mechanical Movement - JLC Calibre 846 - 27mm diameter
Jaeger-Lecoultre – Extraordinaire La Rose – 14 Carats of diamonds – Mechanical Movement – JLC Calibre 846 – 27mm diameter
Harry Winston Premier Hypnotik set with invisible diamond setting
Harry Winston – Premier Hypnotik set with invisible diamond setting
François-Paul Journe Elégante - in Platinum with a midnight blue rubber bracelet - Electro-mechanical with motion detector with inertia weight visible on the dial
François-Paul Journe – Elégante – in Platinum with a midnight blue rubber bracelet – Electro-mechanical with motion detector with inertia weight visible on the dial
Jaeger-Lecoultre Rendez-Vous Moon with an automatic Movement Calibre 935 - A moon phase and Star RDV Indicator - White Gold case- mother of pearl moon disc
Jaeger-Lecoultre – Rendez-Vous Moon with an automatic Movement Calibre 935 – A moon phase and Star RDV Indicator – White Gold case- mother of pearl moon disc

Urwerk

UR-106 Lotus has a Titanium and steel case set with diamonds or the UR-106 Black Lotus has also a titanium and steel case with black PVD treatment set with black diamonds. Limited edition of 11 pieces each

On the ground level, the Harry Winston Ultimate Emerald Signature necklace, a secret watch set with a central emerald cut diamond overlooked the delicate compact mirror they presented during Baselworld15 incrusted with diamonds, pearls and mother of pearl. In the same vitrine the Art Déco timepiece from the latest jewelry collection was launched during SalonQP 2015 paved with diamonds and mounted on a black lace strap.

While the Opus 14 dragged most of the attention, the Midnight counter located on the left side of the booth showed the exquisite Midnight Diamond Drops in blue or brown. And it would be a shame to forget about the Métiers D’Art vitrine. The stunning colors of the feathers of the Premier Butterfly oppose the style of the Premier Shinde with the Enamel Grand feu and gold spangles dial. To top it off, the Premier lace which has a tahitian mother-of pearl with pink beaded mother-of-pearl lacework on the dial proves the delicate craftmanship that is required to get to such a fine result.

On another jewelry level,  Francois-Paul Journe reserved a whole vitrine of his booth to showcase the different options of the Elegante, the first and only timepiece made for woman that took him 8 years to develop. The Elegante, is an electro-mechanical watch that allows the time to stop after 30 minutes of no-movement and start again. With a superluminova dial, the piece is available in Titanium with 6 colored rubber bracelet (including light or midnight blue, white, kaki-green, pink and chocolate) or in red gold set with diamonds- or not and mounted on a chocolate strap. The Platinum version which is only available with a dark blue strap stood out from the dedicated vitrine.

Urwerk brought the UR-106 Lotus their first and only feminine timepiece that collectors and most members of the press did not get the chance to see since the September launch. “It is fun for us to discover and penetrate a new universe that is the feminine watchmaking world,” explains Baumgartner not quite used to talk about women’s watches.

From Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, to François Paul Journe, Peter Speake-Marin, Stepan Sarpaneva or Kari Voutilainen, all, as founders of their brands welcomed in person the visitors of the successful 7th Edition of SalonQP, London 2015.

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