A new fine jewelers class is challenging the most established high-end jewelry houses with their unconventional and modern collections. They are young, talented and international. Let’s take a closer look on the soaring success of the next jewelry stars.
By Marie-Caroline Selmer
Ana Khouri, Melanie Georgacopoulos for Tasaki, Gaïa Repossi and Nikos Koulis, only to name a few, are surely names you must have heard of or read about at least once. As their brand’s awareness are increasing from day to day, The Eye of Jewelry is pointing you in the right direction with you “eyes wide open” on aesthetic, as a proof that these designers are pushing design boundaries and rewriting the sector’s traditional codes.
More artists than commercial jewelers, the new generation is making a name for themselves thanks to their modern, sophisticate but beautifully wearable pieces. Their creative work embodies a new kind of jewelry designed as an extension of the body which aims to mold your form.Forget about traditional jewelry adornment, it is all about beauty enhancement with gold, diamonds and pearls. Traditional materials that these talented artists have reworked and infused with their fresh eyes to create a deep connection between body and jewelry pieces.
Is their jewelry approach linked to its creative background? Surely yes. Designers such as Ana Khouri or Melanie Georgacopoulos were originally trained as sculptors before turning their destiny into jewelry. A solid inform that especially led Georgacopoulos in her quest of giving the exquisite pearls of Tasaki a new life. Gaïa Repossi has also studied archeology and painting before taking charge of the art direction of family’s brand Repossi, while Nikos Koulis completed his Literature studies before graduating from the Gemological Institute of America.
Different paths manifested in their design and gave them a sharp outlook.
Conceiving minimal designs that work from day to night doesn’t mean you can’t embrace the richness of high jewelry. If Brazilian-born designer Khouri has recently added colored gemstones to her designs while giving them a modern touch, Nikos Koulis and Gaïa Repossi both pursue an adoration for jewelry craftsmanship and reinterpret classic shape through a modern angle. The Greek designer is stunning us with its distinctive use of precious gems and enamel, and so does Repossi whilst bringing voluminous diamonds a dramatic abstract aesthetic in its « serti sur vide » range.
With their vision, Repossi, Khouri, Koulis or Georgacopoulos are breaking with the traditional rules of jewelry modifying them their own way with style, talent and craftmanship. Considered as pioneer artists or visionary modernizers is for you to decide.