It is here at the very heart of her treasured Parisian studio that the designer-creator imagines her talismanic pieces, all radiating a magically protective aura. Incomparably-unique, entirely-handcrafted jewelry, just longing to unveil its hidden sense. Rivka Nahmias is one of these designer-creators who adore sharing their inspirations and the tale, the history lying within each gem. Panorama of her signature pieces.
TEIOFJ: How did you get involved in the world of jewelry?
RN: I used to be a journalist and I wanted to study jewelry-making because I wanted to create a piece embracing Yod, the smallest and most powerful letter of the Aramaic (aka Hebrew) alphabet. I had a very precise idea in mind, so I decided to train so that I could create this talisman myself.
TEIOFJ: Could you tell us more about the meaning of the letter Yod?
RN: Yod is the tenth letter of the biblical alphabet; it’s said that it’s God’s letter, his imprint in creation. In meditation, Yod is bestowed with the power of healing, it is the hand that gives and the hand that receives, and it is also a sacred bond between the soul and breathing.
TEIOFJ: How does spirituality influence your creation?
RN: I’ve always been attracted to stones and to the energy which they radiate. As a creator, I love blending gems and colors but, above and beyond all this, what really interests me is infusing sense into my creations. Every stone has a signification, spiritual energy, which it passes on to its wearer. My work entails combining them together so that they may interact in perfect harmony.
TEIOFJ: The Keter collection was launched shortly after the Yod talismans. Where did you find your inspiration for it?
RN: The Keter ring hold particular relevance as it’s one of my first jewelry designs. I wanted to express the idea of a sprinkling of diamonds on the skin, in a somewhat pared-down style, with setting which would be as light as possible. I had a great desire to go back to fundamentals, i.e. to gold and diamond, to focus on these two materials which regenerate at the very heart of the Earth so as to better emit their protective power.
TEIOFJ: Yet, underscoring the idea of a sprinkling of diamonds, the Keter ring is imagined as a piece where each figure is charged with meaning…
RN: Exactly… each variation embraces particular signification. The word Keter means crown. In the version released right now, the ring is set with 42 diamonds which refer to a prayer of protection. Its 13 stems conjure up love as the figure 13 represents unity in astrology. Recently, for a wedding anniversary, I set a ring with 57 diamonds because the figure 57 stands for abundance, and it also alludes to the 57 facets of a diamond.
TEIOFJ: Sacred Geometry also celebrates diamond and gold but in a totally different style. How did this collection come about?
RN: I started off with absolute shapes, i.e. the circle, the triangle and the square, which I reinterpreted in a modern-day style. The lines are pure, the metal is left smooth or is hammered to give it more relief and texture, like the virtuous circle ring. I love the idea of having a perfect shape embodied by “imperfect” material which is chiseled or even dented.
TEIOFJ: If you could hold on to just one piece?
RN: The Y necklace with triangle diamond, for sure. The triangle represents stability, the trinity. With its downwards point, the triangle resembles a funnel which symbolizes the spirit which pours into matter. It’s also a really sexy piece, with this flexible gold chain which ripples sensually over the body… a real second-skin jewel.