The 6th Edition of Only Watch just ended in Geneva with extraordinary bids orchestrated by Aurel Bacs. 44 pieces including 5 pieces a woman could wear and that includes Boucheron, Bovet, Chanel, Claret and De Grisogono.
Luc Pettavino, President of the Assocation Monegasque contre les Myopathies and Founder of Only Watch, opened the auction with a speech to the assembly and the participating brands.
“It has been an on-going project for 10 years,” started Pettavino, “Today it shows the fantastic excellence of the pieces that have been made thanks to one team helping the people in need.” All have the same goal: fight the Muscular Distrophy Dicease.
Mademoiselle Privé by Chanel
A unique Chanel watch specifically made for the auction. When it comes to Craftmanship, marqueterie, inlays or stone setting, Chanel does it all and does it well. When it comes to haute-couture they master the art and when they combine it to watch-making it leads to the Mademoiselle Privé unique watch made in collaboration with Lesage, legendary French embroidery house. The camélia, favorite flower of Gabrielle Chanel is sawn in three different sizes on the beige hand-embroidered dial. A rare feat hard to find nowadays. How did they achieve it ? Well, each flower petal is embroidered of white silk threads with a Luneville hook surrounded by metallic threads leading to a natural pearl on its center. The Luneville technique was developped in 1810 allowing hooks to fix pearls and sequins to imitate Venitian lace. An art that has been lost with the arrival of pearl embroideries. Completly hand-made, Mademoiselle Privé has a rounded gold case set with 200 diamonds weighting no less than 2.49 carats emphasizing on the milky dominant tone of the piece… mimicking the skin of a child. Sold for CHF 38’000.-
The New Retro Black Stripes by DeGrisogono
Made of a red gold case, set on the back with four stripes of black diamonds. “A minimalistic design,” said Bacs. Although the piece was estimated between 30 and 40K it got sold for CHF 18’000.-
Espoir & Paix by Christophe Claret
“Breathtaking” according to Aurel Bacs. Potentiall considered to be the least jewelry timepiece of the Only Watch 2015 selection, Claret abused of his genius creativity to make Espoir et Paix (Hope and Peace) using as central element the emerald precious stone. Set within a mirascope – based on the same principle of the hologram, the emerald appears as if it doubled in size thanks to an optical illusion. The hand dials are off-centered from the central circle of the dial of the 44mm watch case made of white gold and titanium. Set with the same caliber than the Aventicum (key model of Christophe Claret), Espoir et Paix has a 72 hours power reserve and its rotor has the portrait of Alfred Nobel engraved on it. This timepiece pays tribute to the Nobel peace prize winners where each and every name of the 129 Nobel prizes that have been given over the years is engraved on the back case. The most recent Nobel peace prize winner, Malala Yousafzai who received the prize in 2014 fighting for girl’s right to education is engraved at 6’oclock on the case. If the color of the emerald is for hope, and the Nobel Prize is for peace, this timepiece is for both. Sold at its estimated price of CHF 60’000.-
Epure d’Art, Vague de Lumière by Boucheron
Sold for CHF 45’000.- The Epure D’art is a unique piece specifically developed for the auction. With a watch case set in white gold with brilliant and baguette cut diamonds, a dial made of aventurine echoeing the deep blue of the ocean or the sky constellation. Boucheron created Vague de Lumière, inspired by Japanese artist Hokusai and the wave of Kanagawa leading to a round watch with beveled horns where a wave unfolds within the case like a 3D design set with diamonds. Taking into account the technical bounderies and limited space, Boucheron proved its capacity to mix texture and material to intermingle art and watchmaking within a 41mm diameter including an automatic GP400 movement. « Pièce Unique 1/1 » is engraved at the back of the case next to the legendary adage of the house « Je ne sonne que les heures heureuses » claiming that it only resonnates on happy hours ! The unique piece Epure d’Art is mounted on a blue alligator seamless strap and let believe that worn, the Future with capital F can only be happy…
Amadeo Fleurier 39, Lady Bovet by Bovet
A watch that does not yet exist was sold for CHF 80’000.-
Famous for their implication in charities dedicated to children’s causes, Bovet decided to develop their Only Watch piece based on a model that will be unveiled in 2016. Set with a 1738 Dimier Manufacture caliber with a 7 days power reserve, the reversible case (based on the existing Amadeo case) of the piece has two faces. If you want to wear the timepiece as wristwatch it is a possibility but wearing it as a pendant is another one. Nonetheless, the dial on the back side shows a miniature painting (that took over 80 hours to be made) of a couple of doves surrounded by a variety of colored flowers painted on a grand feu enamel case back… a reproduction of a pocket-watch the brand made early 19th Century. On the other side, an off-centered dial made of pink mother of pearl guioché with diamonds indexes gives the time. The design of the watch is made so that watch components can be seen at all times such as the spiral, the jewels, the bridges or gear train as if this side of the piece wanted to show a story opposing the other side who want to tell one. In both cases, the Amadeo Fleurier 39 Lady Bovet sends a message of hope and peace paying tribute to women -and not only because the pink bracelet matches the hue of the dial- and to the woman who is the mother and the child carrier of the future born baby. A symbolic timepiece and message…
“It has been an Auction History and a Charity’s history at its best,” stated Aurel Bacs.
If not jewelry related … Not to mention the six rounds of applause and a standing ovation in between the bids for the Patek Phillipe estimated between 700’000 and 900’000 CHF and sold at CHF 7.3 Millions … all of which will go to the research for Muscular Distrophy.